The best tangerine tree planting location is a warm, sheltered spot that gets full sun all day and has well-drained soil. A south-facing wall makes it even better. That mix gives the tree heat to ripen fruit and protection from cold wind, which is what a tangerine wants most.
At dawn I dragged a garden hose across my coastal South Carolina yard, zone 9a, and ran it for a minute in three spots. Water sat in a low patch near the fence and drained off the rise by the south brick wall in seconds. The first sun of the morning struck that same brick and warmed it under my hand. I dug my shovel in right there and opened the planting hole before the dew burned off. I planted my tangerine against that wall, and it has carried me through three winters since.
Sun is the first thing to check. A tangerine needs six or more hours of direct light a day to set sweet fruit and stay healthy. Less than that and you get a thin, leggy tree with sour, small tangerines. Treat your tree like the full sun citrus plant it is and give it the brightest corner you have.
Drainage comes next, and it is where most people go wrong. Citrus roots rot in soggy ground, so you want well-drained soil that never stays wet for long. The hose test sorts this out fast. If water pools and lingers, pick a higher spot or build a small mound to lift the roots above the wet.
Soil chemistry rounds out the site. Tangerines do best in slightly acidic soil. Aim for a pH of 5.5 to 6.5, the range both UF/IFAS and Clemson Extension recommend. A cheap soil test kit tells you where you stand. I tested mine before I planted, and I was glad I did. You can nudge the number with sulfur to lower it or lime to raise it, but starting near the right range saves you years of fussing.
Now for winter, because that is what kills tangerines in marginal areas. Plant your tree against a south-facing wall and the brick soaks up heat all day, then leaks it back at night when the cold creeps in. A spot near a pond, lake, or the coast helps you too. A body of water holds warmth and softens the chill on frosty nights. Both can lift your tree through a freeze that would harm one in the open.
Steer clear of low ground at the bottom of a slope. Cold air slides downhill and settles in these frost pockets, so the dip that looks calm and sheltered is the spot that ices over first. A few feet of extra height for your tree can be the difference between one that shrugs off a cold snap and one that loses its leaves.
Give your tree room to grow as well. Space tangerines at least 15 feet (4.5 m) apart so each one gets airflow and light on every side. Crowded trees trap damp air, trade pests, and shade each other into weak growth. The gap looks big the day you plant, but your mature tree fills it fast.
If you garden where winters drop below the high 20s°F (around -3°C), skip the ground and plant in a large container instead. A potted tangerine rolls into a garage or sunroom when frost threatens, then back out for the warm months. Pick a pot with drainage holes and a wheeled base so you can move it without straining your back. Whether in soil or a pot, keep mulch pulled back about 1 foot (30 cm) from the trunk so the bark stays dry and rot stays away. Get the sun, drainage, and shelter right, and your tangerine pays you back with fruit for decades.
Read the full article: Tangerine Tree: Complete Growing Guide
