Yes, you can grow epimedium in pots with strong results. The plant takes well to growing epimedium in containers when you pick the right pot and soil mix. A wide pot with good drainage and a humus-rich blend works best. You can place the pot on a shaded patio or by a north-facing wall.
I have grown a 'Frohnleiten' cultivar in a 12 inch (30 centimeter) glazed pot for four years now. The pot sits on a small shaded patio under a tall fence. In spring, I water once a week. In summer, the pot dries fast and I water twice a week. By fall, the rhizomes have filled the pot and push the soil up at the edges.
The roots of this plant are thin and creep just below the soil top. They need room to spread out. Your pot must be wide before it is deep. A 10 inch (25 centimeter) pot is the smallest size to start with. A wider pot will give you more flowers and a fuller leaf show by the third year.
Pick a peat-free compost as your base. Mix in one third leaf mould or composted bark for the right texture. This mix mimics the soil under a woodland tree. The blend holds water but drains fast. Roots get the air they need and the moisture they want. You should never use pure potting compost on its own.
Right pot choice
- Minimum size: Use a 10 inch (25 centimeter) wide pot at the smallest for your first plant.
- Best material: Glazed ceramic or thick plastic holds moisture better than thin terra cotta in summer heat.
- Drainage holes: You need at least three large drainage holes so water flows out fast and roots can breathe.
Soil mix blend
- Base mix: Use peat-free potting compost as the bulk of your blend for solid plant growth.
- Amendments: Add one third leaf mould or composted bark to give the roots a woodland feel.
- pH range: Aim for 6.0 to 7.5 pH, which most quality compost mixes will hit on their own.
Watering rhythm
- Spring: Water once a week to keep the rhizomes moist as new leaves push up from the crown.
- Summer: Water two to three times a week in hot weather since pots dry out fast in the sun.
- Winter: Cut back to once every two weeks if the pot is outside and not under heavy rain.
Your potted epimedium care routine shifts with the seasons of the year. In spring, you feed the plant with a balanced slow-release pellet. In summer, you keep the pot in deep shade and water often. In fall, you cut back any tired leaves. In winter, you protect the pot from freeze-thaw damage with a wrap.
Freeze-thaw is the main risk for pots in Zones 5 and 6. The soil in a pot can freeze hard on a cold night and thaw fast the next day. This cycle cracks roots and kills the plant. You can group your pots together for warmth. You can wrap each pot with hessian or bubble wrap for the winter.
In Zone 5, I move my pots to a shed wall for the worst weeks of winter. The plants stay dormant but the roots do not freeze solid. By March, I move the pots back to the patio. The new growth pushes up by April most years. This is a simple step that has saved my plants for many seasons in a row.
When you pick your epimedium container size, plan for the long haul. A small pot will need a move-up in two years. A wider pot lets the plant settle for five years before you need to divide it. Buy the best pot you can up front. The plant will pay you back with strong flowers each spring.
Read the full article: Epimedium Plant Grower's Guide
