Houseplant · Begoniaceae
Angel Wing Begonia
Begonia coccinea
Set it in bright light and keep up a regular pinch, and the angel wing begonia anchors a corner with silver-spotted leaves and dangling red flowers.
Bright indirect
50–86°F · 10–30°C
USDA 10–11
1–3 ft · 0.3–0.9 m
Overview
The angel wing begonia takes its name from the wing-shaped leaves that climb its tall canes, and it brings an easy, collected elegance to a room. One of the cane-type begonias from the forests of Brazil, it has furnished bright interiors for well over a century, the kind of plant that looks at home beside a reading chair or on a sideboard.
Placed thoughtfully, it works in two registers through the year. The leaves give a steady, sculptural presence against a wall or window, and through the warm months it offers pendulous clusters of red or pink flowers that soften a clean, modern corner. It grows fast to 1 to 3 feet indoors, so it reads as a finished statement rather than a small accent within a season.
Easy to live with, it asks only for a little routine to keep its shape. A bright spot, watering that stays even, and a regular pinch hold it full enough to stand on its own in a styled grouping. Leave the pinch aside and it stretches tall and bare at the base, a leaner silhouette that suits a tall, narrow nook just as well.
Care
The short version: a bright indirect spot with a little morning sun, soil kept evenly moist but never wet, a warm room above 50°F (10°C), high humidity, and a regular pinch to hold its shape in a styled corner.
Light
Give it bright indirect light with a touch of direct morning sun, the kind an east-facing window delivers in a calm morning room. It takes some partial shade, but harsh afternoon sun scorches the leaves, while a dim placement leaves it stretched and sparse.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist and let only the surface dry between waterings, giving just enough to keep the leaves crisp. Ease off through winter, and never let the pot stand in a saucer of water, since soggy soil rots the roots and stems fast.
Soil
Pot it in a loose, humus-rich mix that drains freely, ideally in a container with a drainage hole that suits your scheme. A pH from 5.5 to 7.5 works, acidic to neutral, and good drainage matters more than the exact number.
Temperature
It settles best in a room between 50°F and 86°F (10°C to 30°C) and has no tolerance for frost. A cold draft below 50°F yellows the leaves and drops them, so keep it clear of chilly windows and entryways in winter.
Humidity
It favors high humidity, more than most rooms offer in the colder months. Group it with other plants for a layered tablescape or set it on a pebble tray, and keep the air gently moving so a still, damp corner does not bring on mildew.
Feeding
While it is in full growth from spring through summer, feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength every other watering, roughly every couple of weeks. As the light fades and growth slows, set the feeding aside.
Pruning
Pinch the branch tips early and often to coax side branches and keep the plant bushy rather than leggy, which reads as fuller in a grouping. Once it has the fullness you want, stop pinching and let it set flowers.
Repotting
Repot every 1 to 2 years, or sooner once roots show at the drainage holes, growth stalls, or water runs straight through. Move it up just one pot size into fresh, well-drained mix, and treat the change as a chance to refresh the container to match the room.
Size & spacing
Indoors it grows fast to about 1 to 3 feet (30 to 91 cm) tall and spreads 1 to 2 feet (30 to 61 cm) wide, enough to hold its own as a floor or table piece. Give it room and a little airflow so the leaves dry off and mildew stays away.
Troubleshooting
Nearly every begonia setback in a home comes down to water, light, or air. Overwatering softens the base, a dim corner stretches the canes, and a still, closed room invites mildew. Match the look below, then adjust the setting before it spreads.
Darkened, softened bases beneath a wilting form
This is root and stem rot, almost always from soil that stays too wet, and a cool, damp room can add botrytis on top. Once the base turns soft and the roots go dark and slimy, stop watering and let everything dry out. Cut away the rotted tissue, take healthy tip cuttings to carry the plant forward, and repot into fresh, fast-draining mix.
Fix:
- Withhold water and allow the soil to dry
- Cut away rotted tissue and take healthy tip cuttings to start a fresh plant if rot is advanced
- Repot into fresh, well-drained mix with adequate drainage
Dusty white film on the leaves
A chalky white film is powdery mildew, a fungus that takes hold in the still, humid air of a closed room. Open up the space around the plant, remove the worst leaves, and keep water off the foliage. Easing the humidity down a notch slows it before it spoils the display.
Fix:
- Improve air circulation around the plant
- Remove and discard affected foliage
- Avoid wetting the foliage and reduce ambient humidity around the plant
Yellowing leaves that wilt and fall
Soggy soil is the usual cause, with overwatering behind most of these cases, though a cold draft below 50°F (10°C) brings on the same tired droop. Let the surface dry between waterings, never leave the pot in a full saucer, and shift it away from chilly spots. Keep it in the 50°F to 86°F (10°C to 30°C) range and ease off water through winter.
Fix:
- Let the soil surface dry between waterings and never let the pot sit in standing water
- Move the plant away from cold drafts and keep it above 50°F (10°C)
- Ensure the pot has drainage and a loose, well-drained mix
Glossy residue, cottony wisps, and flitting insects
Several common pests find begonias indoors: mealybugs leave cottony tufts in the leaf joints, spider mites stipple the leaves and spin fine webbing, whiteflies lift off in a cloud when you brush past, and thrips leave silvery scars. Move the plant away from the rest of the collection first, then wipe off the mealybugs and rinse the leaves to knock back mites and whiteflies. Follow up with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, repeating until they clear.
Fix:
- Isolate the affected plant
- Wipe off mealybugs and rinse foliage to dislodge mites and whiteflies
- Treat with an appropriate insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, repeating as needed
Lanky stems with a tuft of leaves on top
In a dim corner without pinching, cane begonias stretch and go leggy, losing the full shape that anchors a styled vignette. Move the plant to a brighter spot with morning sun, and pinch the growing tips to draw out side branches. Cut the tallest canes well back and root the pieces as cuttings to rebuild a fuller form.
Fix:
- Move to a brighter spot with bright indirect light and some direct morning sun (e.g. an east window)
- Pinch the tips of branches to promote lateral growth and a fuller habit
- Cut back overly tall canes and use the removed shoots as cuttings
Toxicity
Place this one with pets in mind. Every part holds soluble calcium oxalates, with the roots most potent, so the same compound that troubles a dog or cat can harm the kidneys of a grazing horse or goat. The sap can leave skin red and itchy as well, so wash up after pruning and keep the pot on a shelf or stand away from curious animals.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
A cat that chews the leaves or stems will usually drool and vomit. The soluble calcium oxalates are the cause, and since the roots hold the most, keep the pot on a high shelf well out of reach.
Dogs Moderate
A dog that samples the plant tends to drool heavily and vomit before long. The identical oxalates are responsible, and any dog that unearths and gnaws the roots takes in the heaviest dose.
Horses Toxic
Grazing on begonia is dangerous for horses, since the soluble oxalates can damage the kidneys. The buried parts carry the most toxin, so keep any planting out of a horse's reach.
Rabbits Toxic
Nothing from this plant should come near a rabbit. Its oxalate crystals inflame the animal's mouth and gut lining, and the roots concentrate the toxin most.
Livestock Toxic
Cattle, goats, and sheep face the same kidney risk as horses when they graze the foliage or roots. Keep the plant fenced off from any animal that might browse it.
Birds Caution
Pet birds can react to the oxalates with mouth irritation and an upset stomach. Place it where curious beaks cannot reach the leaves and stems.
People Caution
The plant is not eaten, and the sap can leave skin red and itchy from contact. Wash your hands after pruning and keep small children from chewing the leaves.
Sap can cause skin irritation (contact dermatitis); the underground parts (roots) are the most toxic part. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and children, and avoid letting animals graze on it
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
Angel wing is really a family of cane begonias, and a few named selections turn up again and again in well-kept rooms. These are the ones worth knowing.
'Argenteo-guttata'
This is the original angel wing begonia, a cross of B. aconitifolia and B. coccinea raised in 1888, and its silver-spotted wing-shaped leaves gave the whole group its name.
'Canary Wings'
Prized for its bright chartreuse-yellow foliage, this cane type hangs heavy clusters of red flowers that lift a shaded corner.
'Corallina de Lucerna'
A vigorous old favorite for a statement spot, it carries large silver-spotted leaves and dangling sprays of red flowers on tall canes.
'Gryphon'
The standout for foliage alone, this one is grown for its big palmate leaves, streaked silver on top and deep orange-red beneath, rather than for any show of flowers.
How to propagate
Angel wing begonias are among the easiest houseplants to multiply, so a single specimen can furnish several rooms or make a thoughtful gift.
Stem cuttingsEasy
Spring to summer · Roots in a few weeks
This is the standard way to multiply cane begonias, and it is about as easy as propagation gets, ideal for filling a second room. Take a tip or stem cutting in spring or summer, stand it in water or a pot of moist mix, and within a few weeks it roots into a plant identical to its parent.
Leaf cuttingsModerate
Spring to summer · Several weeks
Leaf cuttings make a slower second option, taken in spring or summer like stem cuttings. They take several weeks to root and ask for a bit more care, so most growers reach for stem cuttings first.
DivisionEasy
At repotting · Several weeks
When you next repot a mature, crowded clump, you can split it into separate plants for different corners. Each division settles in over several weeks and grows on as its own begonia.
Myths
The parts of a begonia most harmful to pets are its leaves and stems.
It is easy to assume the foliage on display is the worst of it, but the ASPCA points the other way. The roots underground hold the most toxin, one more reason to keep the pot up on a stand where pets cannot dig.
Begonias hold the very same insoluble oxalate crystals as aroids.
They are not the same. Begonias carry soluble calcium oxalates, which behave differently from the insoluble crystals in many aroids and can reach the kidneys of a grazing animal that eats enough.