Houseplant · Araceae

Heartleaf Philodendron

Philodendron hederaceum

Forgiving, fast, and at ease in a shady corner, the heartleaf philodendron asks for little more than the odd drink.

Light

Bright indirect

Warmth

50–⁠84°F · 10–⁠29°C

Hardiness

USDA 11–⁠12

Mature size

3–⁠13 ft · 1–⁠4 m

Toxic to cats, dogs, horses & more
Heartleaf Philodendron

Overview

The heartleaf philodendron is the piece that softens a room without asking for the spotlight. Its glossy, heart-shaped leaves spill from a high shelf or trace a line up a pole, and its fast growth means a bare corner reads full and lived-in within a season. The plant comes from the forests of Mexico and tropical America, and that easy, cascading habit is what lets it drape over a bookcase or frame a window with the same grace.

Where it truly earns its keep is the spots other plants refuse. It settles into low light, dry air, and a relaxed watering routine, which makes it the natural choice for a dim entryway, a busy desk, or the shaded end of a hallway. Give it medium to bright indirect light and it fills in faster and fuller, yet it never demands the prime window seat to look good.

One consideration shapes where it lives in the home: every part holds insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, so it is an irritant to pets, livestock, and people. Train it up and out of the daily traffic, on a tall shelf or a hanging planter, and it becomes an effortless, generous presence that dresses a space for years.

Care

The short version: give it bright indirect light but let it settle for less, water only once the top inch of soil dries, and feed it lightly through the growing season. Keep it warm and placed out of reach of pets and children.

Light

It looks its best in bright indirect light, set near a window but clear of the direct sun that scorches the leaves. It holds up in medium light or a dim corner, though growth slows and the stems stretch, so a brighter placement keeps the fall of foliage full.

Water

Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering again, then water until it drains through. Pull back in winter, when the plant takes up far less. Standing water is the fastest way to spoil it, so lean toward the dry side.

Soil

Pot it in a rich, well-drained potting mix. The roots want air as much as moisture, so a loose, free-draining mix keeps them healthy and keeps rot from taking hold.

Temperature

Ordinary room warmth suits it, anywhere from 50°F to 84°F (10°C to 29°C). Keep it above 50°F and away from cold drafts and heating vents, since a sudden chill sets it back.

Humidity

Average household humidity is plenty, so there is no figure to chase. It welcomes a more humid spot and fills in a touch faster there, but it will not sulk in dry winter air.

Feeding

Feed it monthly through spring and summer with a dilute water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. Ease off in autumn and winter as growth slows, and keep the dose light, since too much salt browns the leaf tips.

Pruning

Pinch the stems back to keep the plant full and shapely rather than thin and trailing bare. Cut just above a leaf node, and a piece you remove roots readily into a new plant for another spot.

Repotting

Move it up a size every 1 to 2 years in spring, or sooner if roots slip through the drainage holes and the soil dries fast. A pot only a little larger keeps the roots from sitting in wet, unused soil.

Size & spacing

As a trailing or climbing vine it reaches 3 to 13 feet (1 to 4 m) with support and spreads 3 to 6 feet (90 to 180 cm) across. Give it a shelf to cascade from or a pole to climb, and it fills the space you set aside for it.

Troubleshooting

Most of what goes wrong here comes down to watering or light, and the plant flags it early. Yellowing leaves, stretched stems, and the odd pest are the signs to read. Match what you see below and act before it dulls the display.

Severe

Mushy brown roots and a wilting plant

Soil that never quite dries invites root rot, the one setback serious enough to undo an otherwise handsome display. Lift the plant, cut away the brown, soft roots, and settle it into fresh, free-draining mix. Water more sparingly from then on, since standing moisture is what started the decline.

Fix:

  • Unpot and trim rotted roots
  • Repot in fresh well-drained mix
  • Reduce watering
Setback

Lower leaves turning yellow

Yellowing on the lower leaves is nearly always overwatering, with too little light the runner-up. Test the soil, and if it stays wet, let it dry and check that the pot drains before you reach for the can again. A brighter spot away from direct sun usually returns the plant to its polished, full look.

Fix:

  • Reduce watering
  • Ensure drainage
  • Move to brighter indirect light
Setback

White cottony tufts tucked into leaf joints

The soft, cotton-like clusters settled into the leaf joints are mealybugs. Touch each with an alcohol-dipped swab, then follow with insecticidal soap to reach the ones you miss. Set the plant apart from the rest of the collection until it is clean again.

Fix:

  • Dab with alcohol-dipped swab
  • Apply insecticidal soap
  • Isolate plant
Setback

Fine webbing and speckled, dull leaves

Spider mites arrive when the air runs dry, dulling the leaves with a fine stipple and threading webbing across the foliage. Rinse the leaves well, treat with insecticidal soap or a miticide, and check the undersides where they gather. Lifting the humidity makes the display far less inviting to them.

Fix:

  • Rinse foliage
  • Apply insecticidal soap or miticide
  • Raise humidity
Setback

Hard brown bumps and a sticky residue

Firm brown bumps that will not brush off the stems are scale insects, and the sticky honeydew they leave is the tell. Scrape them away, then treat with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap to reach any stragglers. Keep the plant on its own while the treatment runs its course.

Fix:

  • Scrape off scales
  • Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap
  • Isolate plant
Cosmetic

Long bare stems with leaves far apart

Stems that stretch with leaves drifting far apart mean the plant is reaching for light, and the trailing look thins as a result. Move it into medium or bright indirect light and the new growth tightens back into that lush, layered fall. A quick pinch to the leggy stems draws bushier shoots from lower down to fill the gaps.

Fix:

  • Move to medium or bright indirect light
  • Pinch stems to encourage branching
Cosmetic

Brown, curling tips on the leaves

Crisp, curling tips are the mark of fertilizer salts collecting in the soil after a too-generous feeding schedule. Flush the pot with plain water until it runs from the base, carrying the buildup away. Then feed less often and at half strength, and the foliage keeps its clean, unblemished edge.

Fix:

  • Flush soil with water
  • Reduce fertilizer rate
Cosmetic

Clusters of small insects on new growth

Aphids gather on the tender new growth and leave a sticky film in their wake. A firm rinse under the tap clears most of the cluster. Insecticidal soap settles the few that hold on.

Fix:

  • Rinse off with water
  • Apply insecticidal soap

Toxicity

Where this plant sits in the home matters, since it is not one to keep within easy reach of anyone who might chew it. Every part holds insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that sting the mouth and throat, bringing burning pain, heavy drooling, and swelling. It is an irritant to cats, dogs, horses, rabbits, livestock, birds, and people, with no part safe to eat, so give it a high, out-of-the-way home and wash your hands after cutting it.

Toxic to

Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People

Cats Moderate

A cat that bites a leaf takes in sharp calcium oxalate crystals. The usual response is drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, and swollen lips and tongue.

Dogs Moderate

Chewing a leaf brings intense burning in the mouth, heavy drooling, and vomiting. As the tissue swells, some dogs gag or find swallowing difficult.

Horses Moderate

The crystals irritate a horse's mouth and throat, so drooling and trouble swallowing follow. Keep the plant well away from paddocks and stored feed.

Rabbits Toxic

Every part carries the irritant crystals, so a single nibble leaves a rabbit drooling and off its food. Keep it out of any room a rabbit is free to roam.

Livestock Toxic

Goats, sheep, and cattle meet the oxalates with mouth pain and a refusal to eat. It has no place anywhere near grazing animals.

Birds Toxic

A bird that chews the foliage suffers the same burning and swelling. Hang or place it where birds cannot reach.

People Caution

No part of it is edible. A bite burns the mouth and can swell the lips and tongue, and the sap may leave skin itchy, so wash after pruning and keep it clear of small children.

Sap may irritate skin; wash hands after cutting stems

Helpline numbers

United States

ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)

Poison Control: (800) 222-1222

United Kingdom

Animal PoisonLine: 01202 509000 (fee applies)

NHS: 111

Australia

Animal Poisons Helpline: 1300 869 738

Poisons Information Centre: 13 11 26

Canada

Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669

Varieties

Beyond the plain green species, a handful of cultivars offer different color and leaf character to suit the mood of a room.

'Brasil'

A bright lime-yellow stripe runs down the center of each green leaf, like a brushstroke through the foliage.

'Micans'

Velvety leaves shimmer in bronze-green over reddish undersides for a softer, moodier look.

'Lemon Lime'

The whole plant glows in bright chartreuse to neon yellow-green, a natural spot of color for a dim shelf.

'Rio'

Streaks of cream and silver run down the middle of each leaf for an elegant, variegated finish.

How to propagate

Few plants are this easy to multiply for a second corner. A single cutting in a glass of water becomes a new plant within a few weeks, and a longer vine can be air layered for a fuller start.

Stem cuttingsEasy

Spring or growing season · Roots in 2-4 weeks

This is the simplest route, and the one most people take. In spring or through the growing season, cut a stem just below a node holding a leaf or two, then stand it in water or press it into moist potting mix, where a glass of rooting cuttings makes a quiet display in its own right. Roots appear in about 2 to 4 weeks, giving you a fresh plant to place elsewhere.

Air layeringModerate

Growing season · Several weeks

Air layering is the slower, more considered method, well suited to a longer vine during the growing season. You wound a stem and wrap the spot to draw out roots before cutting, and over several weeks a rooted length forms that can be potted as a full, established plant.

Myths

Myth

Philodendrons clean the air in your home.

Reality

The notion traces to a sealed-chamber lab test, not a lived-in room. A peer-reviewed analysis found a potted plant removes VOCs in amounts so small that opening a window does far more. Choose it for the look it brings a space, not to purify the air.

Myth

Heartleaf philodendron and pothos are the same plant.

Reality

They read as twins on a shelf but come from different genera. Philodendron petioles are smooth where a pothos runs grooved, and a new philodendron leaf emerges from a papery sheath that pothos never forms.

Myth

This plant is a deadly poison to children.

Reality

The insoluble calcium oxalate crystals do cause real, painful mouth irritation, but they are rated low-severity, and serious outcomes are rare. Set it beyond a small child's reach and treat a chewed leaf as something to rinse and watch, not an emergency.

Myth

It thrives in a dark corner.

Reality

It will hold on in low light, but it looks its best in medium to bright indirect light. Placed too deep in shadow, the stems draw thin and the leaves grow sparse, and the whole display loses its fullness.

Myth

It needs high humidity to survive.

Reality

A little added humidity suits it, yet it gets on perfectly well in ordinary household air. No mister or pebble tray is needed to keep one looking its part.

Sources