Houseplant · Araceae
Swiss Cheese Vine
Monstera adansonii
Give it bright indirect light and something to climb, and the Swiss cheese vine grows into an easy, hole-punched centerpiece for a room.
Bright indirect
60–85°F · 16–29°C
USDA 10–12
3–8 ft · 0.9–2.4 m
Overview
The Swiss cheese vine owes its name to the rows of holes that open across its leaves as it grows up, and it wears them like a signature. A climbing aroid from the tropical forests of Central and South America, it spends its wild life reaching up tree trunks toward the light. Indoors that same climbing habit makes it a natural for a moss pole in a bright corner or a graceful cascade from a high shelf.
It sits in the arum family beside philodendrons and pothos, and it slips into a home with the same easy manner. Bright indirect light, a chunky mix that drains well, and a drink only when the soil surface dries are most of what it asks of a busy household. The holes, known as fenestrations, are the plant's charm, and they widen as each leaf grows up.
It is often taken for the larger Monstera deliciosa, but this is the smaller, quicker vine, better suited to a shelf or a plant stand than a whole floor. Warmth, humidity, and room to climb keep it growing fast and looking full. One thing to plan around the layout for: every part of it is toxic if a pet or child chews on it, so give it a perch that stays out of reach.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light, a well-draining mix, and water only once the top inch or two has dried. Keep it warm and humid, offer it something to climb, and it settles into a room and grows fast.
Light
A spot with bright indirect light gives it the fullest leaves and the most holes, which is what makes it worth showing off. It gets by in medium light or partial shade, though growth slows and the leaves stay smaller and more solid. Keep it out of harsh direct sun, which scorches the foliage.
Water
Water once the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil has dried, then water fully and let the pot drain. Soggy soil is the quickest way to rot the roots, so err on the dry side and it stays looking its best. The plant lets you know it is thirsty before the soil ever sits wet too long.
Soil
Set it in a well-draining, organic-rich potting mix loosened with bark or perlite so water runs right through. It is relaxed about pH and takes anything from 6.0 to 8.0. Good drainage matters far more than the exact recipe.
Temperature
Keep it in the range of 60°F to 85°F (15.6°C to 29.4°C), which suits most warm, lived-in rooms. It has no frost tolerance and sulks in a cold draft, so keep it clear of chilly windows and air conditioning vents in winter.
Humidity
This tropical vine likes the air above 50% humidity. It manages in average room air but rewards a little extra moisture with bigger, healthier leaves. A pebble tray, a humidifier, or a bright bathroom corner all lift the level.
Feeding
Through spring and summer, feed it every two weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer at the usual strength. Ease off in fall and winter as growth slows. That steady feeding through the warm months keeps it filling out at pace.
Pruning
Trim leggy vines to keep the shape full and cut off any tired leaves at the base. Pruning in the growing season doubles as a way to gather cuttings. Pinching the tips encourages a bushier plant rather than one long bare stem trailing off a shelf.
Repotting
Repot every 1 to 2 years in spring, moving up one pot size when roots push through the drainage holes, circle the pot, or growth stalls. Fresh mix and a touch more room keep this fast grower thriving. Adding a stake or pole at the same time gives it a frame to climb and shape the display.
Size & spacing
Trained up a support indoors it reaches about 3 to 8 feet (91 to 244 cm) tall, with a spread of roughly 1 to 3 feet (30 to 91 cm). Give it room to climb or trail and it fills a corner or drapes a shelf with ease.
Troubleshooting
Most of what unsettles this vine comes back to how it is watered and the air of the room it lives in. Notice the early signs on the leaves and roots and the plant stays a pleasure to look at rather than a worry. Find your symptom below and act while it still turns the corner.
Mushy roots and a wilting plant
Root rot is the serious setback, arriving when roots sit wet and lose air until they turn brown and soft, which you notice once you lift the plant from its pot. Take it out, trim away every spoiled root, and give it fresh draining mix. A lighter hand with water from then on is what keeps the display looking its best.
Fix:
- Unpot plant
- Cut away rotten roots
- Repot in fresh draining mix
Leaves turning yellow
A leaf gone yellow on a display vine almost always means overwatering and a pot holding more water than the plant wants. Look for soil that stays wet and a stem base that feels soft to the touch. Water less, let the pot drain cleanly, and give the soil time to dry, and the greenery comes back to form.
Fix:
- Reduce watering
- Ensure pot drains freely
- Let soil dry before next watering
Dark spots on the leaves
Brown or dark leaf spots settle in where water lingers on the foliage and the air of the room stays still. Take off the marked leaves, water at the soil so the foliage stays dry, and set the plant where air can move around it. Dry leaves and a little circulation keep the display clear of new marks.
Fix:
- Remove affected leaves
- Avoid wetting foliage
- Improve air circulation
Fine webbing and speckled leaves
Spider mites slip in when a room's air runs dry, dulling the foliage with faint webbing and a speckled, dusty cast. Rinse the leaves, wipe them clean, and turn to insecticidal soap if the pests linger. A regular look at the undersides and a little more humidity in the room keep the plant looking its best.
Fix:
- Rinse foliage
- Wipe leaves
- Apply insecticidal soap
Brown bumps stuck to the stems
Scale insects read as little brown bumps set along the stems and leaves, and they hold fast rather than brushing away. Touch each with alcohol, lift the rest off by hand, and see them off with horticultural oil. A careful check and a spell of isolation for any new arrival keeps the rest of the room's plants clean.
Fix:
- Wipe with alcohol
- Remove scale by hand
- Apply horticultural oil
New leaves come in solid with no holes
Solid leaves are no cause for concern; they simply mark a young plant or a corner short on light. The signature holes that make the plant a talking piece arrive as it matures and climbs. Move it to a bright spot away from direct sun, offer it a support to rise on, and the pierced leaves follow in time.
Fix:
- Provide bright indirect light
- Allow plant to mature
- Add climbing support
Toxicity
For all its easy charm, this is a toxic plant from leaf to stem. Every part holds insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that burn the mouth and throat the moment they are chewed, bringing drooling, pain, and swelling. Choose a spot out of reach of pets and children, and wear gloves when you prune, since the sap can irritate skin.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
A cat drawn to bite a leaf ends up with a mouthful of sharp calcium oxalate crystals. Look for drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, and trouble swallowing.
Dogs Moderate
A dog that chews the foliage meets intense oral burning, heavy drooling, and an unsettled stomach. That sting tends to warn it off before much goes down.
Horses Toxic
The same crystals leave a horse with an irritated mouth and gut, drooling, mouth pain, and colicky discomfort. Site the plant well beyond a horse's reach.
Rabbits Toxic
This is not safe browse for a rabbit. A single nibble brings mouth irritation, drooling, and digestive upset, so keep the vine somewhere a rabbit cannot reach.
Livestock Toxic
Grazing animals such as goats and sheep can suffer painful mouth and gut irritation from the oxalate crystals. Give them no access to it.
Birds Toxic
A pet bird that shreds a leaf takes the same burning irritation into the beak and throat. Keep cages and perches clear of the foliage.
People Caution
No part of this plant belongs on a plate. Chewing it burns the mouth and swells the lips and throat, and the sap can leave skin itchy or raw, so wear gloves when you prune.
Wear gloves; sap can cause contact dermatitis
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
Only a couple of named forms of this vine reach cultivation, and these are the two worth seeking out for a collection.
subsp. laniata
An accepted subspecies that has taken in the older name Monstera friedrichsthalii, now held as a synonym of it.
'Mint' (variegated)
A variegated cultivar the RHS recognizes, its foliage marbled with pale mint green for a softer look on a shelf.
How to propagate
Few houseplants are as generous, and a single healthy stem is enough to raise another plant for a bare corner or a friend.
Stem cuttingsEasy
Spring to summer · Several weeks to root
Stem cuttings are the simple way to grow your collection. Through spring or summer, cut just below a node that already carries an aerial root, then set the cutting in water or moist mix. A few weeks on, roots take hold and you have another plant to place around the home.
Air layeringModerate
Growing season · Few weeks to form roots
Air layering roots a stem while it stays joined to the parent, the more dependable route on a tricky vine. Wrap a node in damp moss through the growing season and allow the few weeks it takes for roots to form. Cut the new plant free once rooted and give it a spot of its own.
Myths
The holes appear because the plant is underfed.
Feeding plays no part in it. The holes, called fenestrations, open as each leaf matures, so a young or shaded plant has simply not reached that stage.
Adansonii is just a baby Monstera deliciosa.
The two get confused constantly, yet they are not the same plant. Monstera adansonii Schott is its own accepted species, not a juvenile form that matures into deliciosa.